For their project The Next "Invasive" is "Native", the artist duo Cooking Sections have produced a Japanese knotweed flavoured ice cream, which will be sold on Gillett Square. Demonized in the media and popular imagination, knotweed (which tastes and has the texture of rhubarb when cooked) emblematizes collective paranoia about the pernicious and uncontrollable spread of 'alien' species – an issue that relates as much to contemporary discussions around the refugee crisis in Europe and the Brexit debate as to national environmental policies. In the centre of Dalston, whose multicultural population has been and continues to be shaped by successive waves of migration, what does it mean to be 'native'? And how might the sociable (and delicious) activity of eating ice cream change our preconceptions of the dangers of 'invasion'?
Amy Sherlock is a writer and editor based in London, UK. She is Deputy Editor of frieze.